International Couture Takes Center Stage at Global Fashion Collective's NYFW Show
From Japanese Victorian ready-to-wear to couture wearable art, Global Fashion Collective showcased four designers for their evening wear NYFW show.
Hidden within a Brooklyn mall, the line to get into Global Fashion Collective’s (GFC) show crowded the front doors. GFC features designers from Japan, Indonesia, Mozambique, Mexico, China, France, and Korea at fashion weeks around the world. The runway, located within City Point BKLYN, was classic—one strip down the middle— and the room was overflowing with high-energy music. Spotlights bathed the front row in light. The young audience pulled their phones out as the lights dimmed and the third show of Global Fashion Collective, the evening wear collections, commenced.
Lisa Ju
Lisa Ju’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
The evening show opened with Lisa Ju's collection, titled “Renceum Réjouissances”— Renceum means sparkling in Sundanese, and Réjouissances means festivities in French. Ju embraced these attributes within the collections 12 couture art pieces; Ju’s designs shimmered shades of silvers, golds, deep blues, and rose tints. The collection was full of hand-painted flowers, beaded fringes, and one-off designs. “I’m blessed to be influenced by a lot of different points of view growing up in Indonesia, which has so many different cultures, so many diverse textiles, crafts, arts, and yet a combination of original indigenous tradition and multiple modern foreign influences — that shaped me as a designer,” Ju said.
Lisa Ju’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Eyes in the audience sparkled as each new model sported a design. Although each artistic design glittered on its own, what really made Ju’s collection stand out was her attention to detail within the use of arm accessories. The—for lack of a better term—arm pieces were crafted to sashay behind the models, adding an extra touch of glamour.
The combination of intricate beading and the arm accessories gave Lisa Ju’s couture collection a unique captivating look.
The closing model wore a golden-tan and silver beaded gown with gold accessories, including a crown-inspired hair accessory. The design featured a plunging heart neckline and a slit that was covered with satin exaggerated ruching. In true “Renceum Réjouissances” fashion, the gentleman’s grey arm accessory flows into a cape with detailed embroidery and exaggerated ruching.
Lisa Ju’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Victorian Maiden
Victorian Maiden’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
While the dramatic, classical music rang, two models dressed in Victorian attire bounced down the runway. Victorian Maiden, a brand that exhibits the Japanese Victorian style, is celebrating its 25th anniversary of ready-to-wear "Lolita fashion".
Opening the show, the two models wore identical styles of tea-length dresses—one in navy with white and red pinstripes and the other red with white and navy pinstripes. The eerie pair matched in every detail, down to the models’ gazes.
Victorian Maiden’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
The next model looked like she had stepped out of a Sherlock Holmes novel, complete with a magnifying glass in her hand. Whispers flooded the audience that the plaid design resembles the tone of Burberry fashion. In a two-piece tea-length silhouette, the red accents continued the cohesive collection. Victorian Maiden’s plaid design is reminiscent of Lena Hoschek’s 2016 collection shown in Berlin.
The colors of the collection included rich maroons, tans, whites, blacks, and blues. The doll-like silhouettes can be seen throughout the collection, the accessories and fabrics allowing for individuality within the designs.
Victorian Maiden’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
The closer had differed from the rest of the collection, due to the skinny silhouette and wool texture. The design, named the “Classical Doll Coat”, included red fur gloves and a beret that tied around the chin. Although accents of red were used throughout the collection, the red finale look took the crowd by surprise.
Victorian Maiden’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Taussy Daniel
Taussy Daniel’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Structure, structure, structure. Taussy Daniel's stunning couture collection of formal evening wear was a collection of wearable art. Each design from the expertly named collection, the Blooming Collection, was a statement piece. Taussy Daniel’s brand emphasizes the feminine body and draws attention through art.
Taussy Daniel’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Cohesiveness was a key component of Taussy Daniel’s collection. Each design had an aspect of another’s—whether that be color, design, or the sculpted style. The collection felt like a story you could trace with a red line. No audience member had to fight to understand why one design followed another.
Taussy Daniel’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
The closing design was a show-stopper, sending the crowd into an audible gasp. Out came a sheer black gown; the top of the gown exploded into a flower that bounced as the model took each step. The lower half is covered in black beading. The blooming flower extended lines of beads that mimic the style and stigma of a flower. Heads turned as the flowered gown flowed down the runway, leaving the crowd in awe.
Taussy Daniel’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Hengki Kawilarang
Hengki Kawilarang’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Hengki Kawilarang closed the evening show for Global Fashion Collective. Rich with Indonesian culture, the collection was full of detail and sparkle. Sriwijaya, a famous empire around 10 AD located on the island of Sumatra, and Sriwijaya and Palembang fabrics inspired Kawilarang’s collection.
Hengki Kawilarang’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
Kawilarang’s collection had some stand-out designs but left the crowd feeling underwhelmed after Taussy Daniel’s collection. Although the collection has plenty of sparkle and experimentation, only a few designs were truly eye-catching. The color theme was full of blacks, golds, silvers, purples, and reds. Some of the additional accessories made the collection feel heavy, instead of enlightened.
Hengki Kawilarang’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
The last look was one of the few designs that was eye-catching. The peplum style red and gold top of the dress and sheer red bottom saved the ending to an underwhelming collection. The accessories made the look acceptable for a closing design—without the headpiece, one would not have been able to pick the closer apart from the rest of the collection.
Hengki Kawilarang’s Collection Fall/Winter 2023, Courtesy of Global Fashion Collective
